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World Cup 2010 travel guide: a day trip south of Cape Town

Saturday, 17 April 2010


World Cup 2010 travel guide: a day trip south of Cape TownWorld Cup 2010 travel guide: a day trip south of Cape Town.
One of Cape Town's most charming day trips is to the southern peninsula's coastal towns of Kalk Bay and Simon's Town. Kalk Bay is a coastal charmer, with little cottages dotting the hill overlooking the main road and the vast sweep of the Atlantic Ocean. There's always a sea breeze and it has a lovely village-like feel, with fishermen selling their catch at the harbour.

I love getting to Kalk Bay early, for a breakfast of a boiled egg and soldiers with a latte at C'est La Vie bakery on Rosmead Road. Then I hit the cobbled streets to shop – India Jane boutique showcases frilly frocks and jewellery by local designers; Railway House has antique collectibles and Kalk Bay Books (+27 21 788 2266) is a great independent bookstore. One of my favourite spots for lunch is Harbour House (+27 21 788 4133) with massive windows overlooking the sea – if the seared tuna is on the specials menu, it's an absolute must.

No visit to Kalk Bay is complete without a drink at the Brass Bell (+27 21 788 5455). This stalwart overlooks the sea but is right next to the train tracks, so you have to shout to be heard when a train whistles past. It's all old-school style dark wood (and salty sea dog locals) upstairs, while the lower deck's restaurants attract a younger crowd.

Then head further along the coast to Simon's Town, about 25 minutes' drive away. Its maritime history is tangible, with the South African Naval Museum and navy ships docked at the harbour. I always give the statue of Just Nuisance a scratch when I'm there – this dog is firmly rooted in Simon's Town lore. Born in 1937, he followed his sailor friends everywhere, even on the train to Cape Town, eventually earning a free pass on the train. He received a full military funeral when he died.

Then it's on to Boulder's Beach (visitor centre +27 21 786 2329) just south of town to see the colony of over 2,000 African penguins – also called "jackass penguins" because of the loud braying sound they make.

• This article was amended on 1 April 2010. It had earlier been amended, on 10 March 2010, to say that Kalk Bay's cottages overlooked the Indian Ocean. The article's original reference to the Indian Ocean has been restored.

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